Kataginu
肩衣
Home Up Hakama Kataginu Hitatare Sugata Suikan Sugata Kachie Sugata Bukan sokutai sugata
     
   

  

       The Kataginu is worn as an informal second layer and is basically a hitatare without the sleeves.  It was developed during the late Muromachi Period and became popular with the warrior class.  It is typically made from linen, but can be made from silk as well.  It is also typically made of the same color/pattern of fabric the hakama are made from.  During the Sengoku Jidai, it became the usual dress for the Bushi and according to Takeda Shizuo, "respectable samurai did not go out in public with only kosode and hakama."

  

 
     

 

Sewing Procedure
 

Measurements Needed

 
  Top of Shoulder to Mid-Thigh
Circumference of Neck
 
  Pieces Needed  
  Two (2): Body Panels, 14" wide
Collar
Lining, optional
 
  Procedure  
 
  1. Layout and cut out all pieces.
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  2. For Kataginu
    1. Sew the body pieces together along the long edge, but only for half the length (similar to sewing the body pieces together for the Kosode).
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    2. If the outside edges are not selvage edges, hem them now.
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    3. Fold over body panels, wrong side to wrong side and press a fold in the shoulder area.
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    4. Now, lay the body panel on a large table or floor (I use my ironing board), and measure 1/2 neck measurement along shoulder fold.  Use the center back seam as the center point of the measurement.  This measurement is for the neck opening cutout.
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    5. Now, using the neck opening measurement mark as a reference measure from the outside of the front panels in to the mark measurement for the entire length of the front panels.
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    6. Now, cut out the neck area, similar to the neck cutout for a kosode.
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    7. Now, cut out the narrow strips created by the previous step.
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    8. Now, attach the collar in the cutout area.
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    9. Hem the bottom edges of the Kataginu, wear and enjoy.
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References:
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/graphics/garbphotos/hitatare1L.jpg
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/graphics/garbphotos/kataginu1L.jpg
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch01.html