Hitatare/Kataginu
 
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Hitatare                                                                                                                                      Kataginu
 
The hitatare is a formal top that is worn, mainly, by men and is paired with either matching (color) hakama or of a different color hakama.  it is basically a Kataginu with sleeves attached.  The Kataginu is worn as an informal second layer.
 
As with the hakama, the kataginu and hitatare are easy to make, since they both are basically two strips of fabric, one panel width each, sewn together. 
 
Measurements Needed
  • Top of shoulder to mid-thigh
  • Panel width, typically 14" to 16"
  • Finger tip to Finger tip, with arms stretched out from sides (as if to do a windmill exercise)
  • Circumference of neck
  • Circumference of upper arm closest to armpit (will become armpit opening measurement)
Pieces Needed
  • For Kataginu
    • Two (2) panels for body
    • Collar piece
  • For Hitatare
    • Two (2) panels for body
    • Collar piece
    • Two (2) wide panel pieces for each sleeve
    • Two (2) narrow panel pieces for each sleeve
    • Misc. Kumihimo for various ties and embellishments
 
Procedure
  1. Layout and cut out all pieces for the garment that is being made.
    .
  2. For Kataginu
    .
  3. Sew together two (2) body pieces, along one of the long sides, halfway up the side (similar to the first step in sewing together a kosode).
  4. Press seam flat.
  5. Fold over sewn together panels, so outside is out and is folded in half short-wise.  Iron the shoulder area flat (will help create the pointy effect of the kataginu when worn).
  6.   Now comes the tricky part.
  7. Measure, 1/2 the neck measurement, along the now ironed shoulder ridge using the center seam as the center of the 1/2 neck measurement, and mark the outer points of the measurement.  This will become the neck opening and cutout down the length of the front, of the kataginu.
  8.  Measure from the outside edge of the kataginu to the neck opening mark and using that measurement, measure the bottom edge in towards the center and make a tick mark.
  9. Using both tick marks, the one at the shoulder ridge and bottom edge, draw a line that will now be parallel to the outer edge of the kataginu.  Cut out the narrow piece to create the neck opening.
  10. Next create a collar, using the same technique as making a hakama tie, and iron flat.
  11. Take the collar and attach it to the kataginu in the same fashion as the collar attachment for a kosode.
  12. Hem the long edges and bottom edges of the kataginu.
  13. Wear and enjoy.
  14. For Hitatare
  15. Start with a kataginu.
  16. Sew two (2) sleeves together using one (1) wide sleeve panel and one (1) narrow sleeve panel.  Also, using the fingertip to fingertip measurement, subtract the overall body panel width from that measurement.  Divide the remainder in half and the new measurement is the sleeve length measurement.  Remember when making the sleeves, the wrist hem will take up the remainder of the material and create a wide slot for an internal sleeve tie (flat kumihimo is typically used for this purpose).
  17. Do not sew the lower edge of the sleeves yet. 
  18. Fold the sleeves over and iron flat to create a center top ridge crease.
  19. Lay the body out flat so that the shoulder ridge is up.
  20. Take one of the sleeves, top ridge down, and place on top of the body, ridge to ridge, and pin in place.  Take the upper arm circumference measurement, divide in half, and mark this measurement along the sleeve/shoulder seam using the ridge as the center point.
  21. Do the same for the other sleeve.
  22. *NOTE*  The body side seams are not sewn together.
  23. Now take the whole thing and fold it inside out, so the bottom edge of the sleeves can be sewn.  Sew the bottom seams of the sleeves.
  24. Turn the whole thing right side out, and iron flat.
  25. Add flat kumihimo to the sleeves.
  26. Add round kumihimo to the front panels to tie the front.
  27. Wear and enjoy.
 
References:
http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/5.htm
http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/busou/27.htm