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The Mongolian word for Door
Frame is Nars. The Nars is an integral
part of the Ger frame and also holds the door.
The Nars should be of sturdy construction since
the Khana are attached to it, as well as the
door. The Mongolian word for Door is
Khaalga. It should also be constructed of
study materials as it serves as security for the
interior contents of the Ger. The Nars for
this project is constructed using 2"x3" building
studs which are mitered at the corners and
pegged with 1/2" oak dowels. There is also
two (2) wings that are attached to the sides of
the Nars, that are not shown in the above
picture, but are installed to hide where the
Khana and tension cords attach. I will
also show a variant using 3" "L" Brackets in the
corners instead of the Dowels. In addition
to the Nars, I will provide construction plans
for a simple board and batten door that uses
simple door hardware that can be bought at any
Lowes or Home Depot. |
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Nars Construction |
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Tools Needed
Miter Saw,
or a Circular Saw will do in a pinch
Hand Saw
Hammer
Drill
1/2" Spade Drill Bit
1/4" Drill Bit
Wood Chisel, 1/2" minimum
For alternate Nars construction
Phillips Screwdriver, or Power Driver with
Phillips Tip
Bench Vise
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Materials Needed
Three (3):
2"x3"x8' Building Studs
One (1): 1/2"x3' Oak Dowel
Water Proof Wood Glue, such as Titebond 3 or
Gorilla Glue
Ten (10): 1/4" Wooden Dowel Pins
Two (2): 1"x4"x6' Poplar Boards
Paint color of your choice
Sealer of your choice
Four (4): 1" Eye Lags
Six (6): 1/4-20x2 1/2" Carriage Bolts
Six (6): 1/4" Fender Washers
Six (6): 1/4-20 Wing Nuts
For alternate Nars construction
Eight (8): 3" "L" Brackets
Six (6): 3" "T" Brackets
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Construction Method |
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- Take two (2)
of the 2"x3"x8' building studs
and cut them to 64", each.
These will be the upright parts
of the Nars. Now, take the
third 2"x3"x8' building stud and
cut two (2) pieces from it, 36"
long. These will be the
upper and lower parts of the
Nars.
- Next, miter
the ends of all the pieces, 45°
on the flat side. The Nars
will be thick from inside to
outside.
- Now, drill
two (2) 1/2" holes in each
corner, diagonally through the
corner for 1/2" oak dowels to go
through.
- Insert two
(2) 1/2" dowels, approx. 6" long
per dowel, into each hole by
applying glue and pounding each
dowel into each hole. Glue
should also be applied to the
entire corner joint. Set
aside to dry.
- Once glue is
dry, trim the dowels flush with
the Nars.
- Now figure
out which short side will be the
top, and mark it with a pencil.
I use a standard sharpie and
mark the inside top rail "TOP"
so when it comes to setting up
the Ger, I do not have to guess
which end is UP.
- Now the fun
part. Three (3) cutouts
need to be cut along the length
of the long sides, along the
inside edge of the Nars.
- Measure down
" from the top,
" from the top, and
" from the top. These are
the centers for the cutouts.
Do for both sides of the Nars.
- Now measure
3" out from each mark, for all
three (3) marks, so that each
cutout will be 6" long.
- Now mark a
line half way down the frame, so
that each cutout takes out half
the frame.
- Cutout each
cutout using a saw and chisels.
- Drill a 1/4"
hole in the center of each
cutout. These holes will
hold 1/4-20x2 1/2" carriage
bolts.
- Now
cut the 1"x4"x6' poplar boards
to 64" long.
- Drill five
(5) 1/4" holes along the length
of one long edge. The
depth of each hole should be
half the length of a 1/4" dowel
pin.
- Next, either
measure out the same
measurements, as the holes for
the 1/4" dowel pins, or use
centering pins to mark where the
holes need to go so that the
poplar boards sit flush with the
outside edge of the Nars.
The poplar boards should look
like wings coming from the
outside edge of the Nars.
- Glue up the
"wings" and set aside to dry.
- Sand, paint,
and seal the Nars.
- Once the
Nars is dry, it is time to
attach the eye lags. These
will be the attachment points
for all the cords that help to
hold the Ger together.
- Screw in one
(1) 1" eye lag within 3" of the
top of the Nars, along the long
side. Screw in one (1) 1"
eye lag centerline of the long
side.
- Install the
six(6) 1/4-20x2 1/2" carriage
bolts into the holes that were
drilled earlier. Some
hammering may be needed to get
them to seat properly.
- Temporarily
install the 1/4" fender washers
and 1/4-20 wing nuts.
- Set aside
the Nars.
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Alternate Construction Method |
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- After
cutting all pieces to size, use
the eight (8) 3" L brackets to
hold the Nars together.
- Instead of
using dowel pins for the side
wings, use the 3" T brackets to
attach the wings to the side of
the Nars. Bending the
perpendicular leg is necessary
for the bracket to work
properly.
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Khaalga Construction |
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Materials Needed
Eleven
(11): 1"x4"x6' Pine Boards
One (1): 1"x3"x6' Pine Board
Forty-four (44): 1 1/4" Drywall Screws
Two (2): Black Door Hinges
One (1): Screen Door Handle
One (1): Eye/Hook Latch
Paint of your choice
Sealer of your choice
Tools Needed
Power Miter
Saw, Circular Saw will work
Power Drill with Phillips Screw Bit
Hand Plane, Power Plane will work
Framing Square
Large Flat Head Screwdriver
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Construction Method |
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- Start by
cutting the 1"x3"x6' pine board
into two (2) pieces 34" each.
- Cut all
eleven (11) 1"x4"x6' pine boards
to 64" each.
- The pieces
will be very snug in the Nars.
That is ok for now. The
whole door can be planed down a
fraction of an inch during
fitting.
- Lay out all
eleven (11) 1"x4" boards on a
flat and even surface, such as a
garage floor.
- Measure down
from the top and bottom of each
board, 12". This will be
where the 1"x3" pieces will be
attached.
- Align the
1"x3" across the 1"x4" boards,
at the previous marks, and
adjust them so they are halfway
into the end 1"x4" boards.
- Now,
carefully screw in the first 1
1/4" drywall screw.
- Using the
framing square, adjust the 1"x3"
cross piece so that it is square
with the first 1"x4" board and
screw in another 1 1/4" drywall
screw. Take time to do
this step as it will set up the
rest of the boards when
installing the rest of the
drywall screws.
- Use two (2)
drywall screws per board.
- Now do the
same thing for the other end.
- Fit the dorr
to the Nars, adjusting the fit
by planing down the edges as
needed until the door fits.
The door should just fall
through the Nars if it is done
right.
- Paint and
seal the door.
- Set aside to
dry.
- Once dry,
replace the door inside the
Nars. I usually stand
everything up like I'm
installing it in a house.
- Using a large
flat head screwdriver, adjust
the height of the door within
the Nars, so the bottom of the
door does not rub against the
bottom cross piece of the Nars.
- Install the
two (2) hinges, the handle, and
the eye/hook latch.
- Set the
entire Nars/Khaalga aside.
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References: http://www.mongolinternet.com/GenghisKhan.htm
http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/109807118/Ger_Mongolian_yurt_.html
The Complete Yurt Handbook.
Paul King. Eco-Logic, Bath. 2001
Mongolian Cloud Houses: How To Make a Yurt and Live Comfortably.
Dan Frank Kuehn. Shelter Pulications, California. 2006 |