This is the formal court
wear of the military official (which is the
meaning of “bukan”).
It was worn only by military officials of the
fourth court rank and below. Men of the first
through third rank wore the
even if they held military appointments.
The principal garment is the ketteki no hô.
The bukan sokutai sugata is made up of several parts. These parts include shitozu, kosode, oguchi, akome, hitoe, shitagasane, hanpi, uwabakama, okatabira, and the ketteki no ho. There are also various accessories that are worn with the bukan sokutai sugata. These include kutsu, ishi no obi, hirao, tato, hiogi, shaku, hoso tachi, hirayanagui, yumi, and kanmuri.
I will be making this outfit as an A&S Competition project for the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) and the individual parts of the Bukan Sokutai Sugata will be documented within this page and the pages linked at the top of this page. I expect to take about six (6) months to sew the individual parts, and then another six (6) months to build the accessories.
The above links are set up in the order of wear, starting with the kosode being the first item to be worn and the Ketteki no Ho being the last to be worn.
After spending a few moments looking at the above photos, there are two parts of the outfit that could become problematic, the shoes and the blue dangly belt. The shoes, called kutsu, have solid uppers but rubber soles. The blue dangly belt, called hirao, is made using a karakuni-dai which is a Chinese loom used to braid wide braids such as the hirao. While it is easy to build the karakumi-dai, I have not found any instructions on how the braid is made.
|What I Learned While Sewing This Outfit|